To find out if your rotor is warped, set the bike in a stand or flip it over so the wheel can spin freely. “Almost no rotor is perfectly straight,” says Mike Perejmybida of High Wheel Cyclery in Ontario, Canada. If you’ve adjusted your caliper but still hear rubbing, check your rotor: Sometimes, they warp from a hit or even just excess heat. Get four great disc brake tools in one: a rotor truing slot, brake pad/piston spreader, a bleed block, and a travel spacer. If you’ve adjusted your caliper but still hear rubbing, check your rotor-sometimes they warp from a hit or excess heat. Then retighten the top bolt to torque spec, followed by the bottom bolt. Hold the brake lever down to keep the caliper in place while tightening the top and bottom bolts until snug. This will clamp the caliper to the rotor. Wiggle the caliper to make sure it moves freely, then pull the corresponding brake lever hard. Usually, the caliper is misaligned.įix this by loosening the two bolts attaching the caliper to the frame or fork just enough so that the caliper can move side-to-side. If your rotor doesn’t spin freely, you know it-the resulting rubbing, grinding, and squealing will drive you nuts-and it can cost you some momentum.
Calipers contain opposed pistons that sit on either side of the rotor pressure from the brake line engages these pistons, which push the brake pads inward to contact the disc. Shimano’s official user manuals do not specify a service interval but does say to replace the fluid when it becomes discolored.)īrake levers are attached by the brake lines to calipers located on both the front and rear discs. (SRAM recommends bleeding hydraulic disc brakes every six months. While this costs more than replacing cables, it only needs to be done every six months. We suggest having a shop mechanic bleed your brakes (the old hydraulic fluid is flushed and replaced with fresh fluid) because you need to use the right fluid, which is matched to your brake for proper heat management. This pricier option is generally more difficult for the home mechanic to maintain. But more bikes are coming stock with hydraulic disc brakes.
Apart from price, some riders prefer cable-activated disc brakes because they’re easier to work on at home, and they’re compatible with most mechanical brake levers. This lower-cost option will allow you to spend less and still own a bike with reliable, all-weather stopping power. If you’re interested in buying a disc brake–equipped bike for less than $1,000, you’re probably going to end up with mechanical brakes. A Step-by-Step Guide on How to Adjust Your Brakes
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